Munich and Me!
Of all the major European cities I’ve visited over the last few years, Munich stands out amongst the best.
Sure, London nights out or the sights and sounds of somewhere like Amsterdam are as vivid as ever – and anyone who has been to either of these capitals will know exactly what I mean – and Barcelona, Paris, Madrid, Milan and Venice are all pleasant enough. In none of these places, though, was I made to feel as welcome or at ease as I was in my few days in Munich last February.
When an old university housemate started working in Ulm at the start of this year, another friend and I wasted little time in formulating a plan to go over and see him as soon as possible and explore Germany. What a masterstroke of a decision that turned out to be.
With cheap flights from Manchester to Stuttgart secured, we turned our attentions to getting discounted cover, as I’ve learnt the hard way about the importance of travel insurance after losing my luggage during a golfing holiday in Austria a couple of years back. Luckily cheap travel insurance gave us a quick solution and we were protected. That was that. Next stop: Germany.
The journey in itself, which was less than 90 minutes, was unlike anything I’ve ever experienced as the in-flight service was exceptional and the food was edible for once. Following an overnight stay in Ulm, we caught a ‘slow’ train – as it was described to us by one helpful train conductor – to Munich that cost €25 between the three of us. We were staggered by how cheap this was. Granted, it took roughly 80 minutes to complete the 160km journey and the train itself seemed to stop at every station under the German sun, but we were quite happy to sit back, relax and soak up the scenery.
Our city base apartment, which set us back less than €20 each for the night, was conveniently located just a few streets away from Munich train station, meaning we could dump our bags in our room and see the city centre by foot straight away. It was more by good fortune than anything else that we stumbled across the Viktualienmarkt, a daily food market that gave us a real flavour of German cuisine and of Bavarian culture in general. We washed down a dish of piping-hot currywurst, sauerkraut and kartoffelsalat from one of the stalls with a few glasses of weird and wonderful wine being sampled by a cluster of locals nearby who took great delight in telling us where to go and what to see. It was a relief to hear one of them recommend that we popped into the Hofbrauhaus, as this was pretty much what we’d built the whole trip around.
It’s believed that the Hofbrauhaus is the biggest pub in the world and it more than lived up to its billing. It was everything we expected a traditional German ale house would be – and more. Within minutes of passing through the giant doors, we were sat on a huge table getting acquainted with people from all over Germany and further afield with a two-pint stein glass in our hands swaying from side to side and singing along with the live oompah band. The locally-brewed beer was quite unlike anything I’ve ever sampled. So crisp, so quaffable. The atmosphere and noise generated by young and old inside the Hofbrauhaus was incredible and we found the German hospitality to be exemplary.
Before heading back to Ulm in our hire car and then on to Stuttgart and home, we took in a Bayern Munich game the following day at the futuristic Allianz Arena. Rather naively, we thought we could just rock up and buy tickets on the day, only to be told by a club official when we tried that the fixture against Hoffenheim had been sold out for months. So we had to find a tout selling spares. Well, I use the word tout in the loosest form as the man we actually bought tickets off was about as far removed from the stereotypical image of a tout as you could get. We paid face value for the €40 tickets and ended up sitting next to our ticket saviour and his family, who celebrated each of Bayern’s four goals by embracing the three of us and spent a sizable chunk of the afternoon teaching us a few terrace anthems.
It was a very surreal 90 minutes or so and put the seal on Munich moments that will live long in the memory.



